Readers it is with great pleasure that I present to you today’s post from our new Spice Expert Chef Belinda Smith-Sullivan. ~ Heather Watkins Jones

On a trip to Napa Valley, a few years ago, I just happened upon a spice shop. While sniffing my way through the endless selection of spices available, as any true culinarian would, I discovered something deliciously referred to as grains of paradise.* And like any knowledge-thirsty chef, the first thing I did was pop a few of these tiny reddish-brown grains into my mouth and bit into them. From the initial tingling on the tip of my tongue I thought pepper. But once that sensation dissipated the finish was surprisingly similar to that of cardamom and citrus. I decided I could not return home without taking a generous amount of this curious spice with me.

Grains of Paradise, better known in it’s native land of West Africa as Melegueta (or alligator) pepper, was very popular throughout Africa and Europe during the middle ages.  It was commonly used as a substitute for black pepper; and prescribed by doctor’s for it’s digestive properties, because it was less irritating to the digestive system.  However, in the eighteenth century its’ popularity in Europe dwindled, and it was reduced to a flavoring for beer and sausage making.  Little known outside of West & North Africa until recently, grains of paradise is gaining popularity in the U.S., due to some well-known chefs and widely-watched television cooking shows.  And just like a few hundred years ago, it is still a popular and common ingredient used in the production of beer.

I spoke with some brewmasters who were only too willing to give me a lesson in the art of brewing beer and why grains of paradise is an important component of that process.  “Grains of paradise is typically used in Belgium-style beer production, to offset the sweetness of those beers, that can contain ingredients such as coriander, orange peel and honey” said Randy Doucet, brewmaster for the Aiken Brewery in Aiken, South Carolina.  And according to Bobby Cannon, brewmaster for Samuel Adams, “We use grains of paradise in our Summer Ale.  We find that its’ spicy quality provides the perfect balance to the tropical fruit notes found in the beer.”

In my house any new spice or herbs ultimate test is how it holds its’ own when paired with a steak. I deliberately used the grains of paradise as a substitute for pepper – yes, I sacrificed a steak for the sake of this experiment.  The preparation was simple.  I sprinkled both  sides of a ribeye with kosher salt and lavishly applied fresh ground grains of paradise.  Then coated the steak with olive oil and grilled to medium rare.  As I suspected, it tasted like a milder version of steak au poivre that left an aromatic hint on the palate.  Perfection!

Since my trip, I am constantly experimenting with this darling spice of the culinary world.  Here is a recipe for you to try at home.  Let me know what you think!

Roasted Butternut Squash Soup with Scallops

1 butternut squash (about 3-4 pounds)

olive oil

1/2 large onion, cut in half and sliced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

3-1/2 cups chicken broth

1/2 teaspoon cardamom

2 tablespoons madeira, or sherry

salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste

scallops

grains of paradise, ground

large croutons/crostini

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Spray 13x9x2-inch glass baking dish with vegetable spray.  Cut squash in half lengthwise; and place, cut side down, in prepared baking dish.  Baked until squash is tender, about 45 minutes.

Cook onions in olive oil in a medium pot over medium heat, stirring until soft, about 5 minutes.  Add garlic and cook an additional 3 minutes.  Add stock, cardamom and madeira and simmer uncovered, about 15 minutes.

Using a large spoon, scrape half squash into food blender; discard peel.  Add half of stock and puree until smooth, about 1 minute.  Transfer to a clean pot and keep warm and covered.  Repeat with second half of squash and stock.  Bring to a simmer and season with salt and pepper.

Sprinkle scallops with grains of paradise and chill for 30 minutes.  Heat oil in a skillet over moderately high heat until hot; then sauté scallops until just cooked through, about 2-3 minutes per side.  Transfer to a paper towel.

Spoon warm soup into bowls.  Add a crouton and cover with a scallop.

For croutons: slice a baguette into 3/4″ slices.  Toss with olive oil, granulated garlic and minced parsley.  Place on baking sheet and bake in 400 degree oven for 8-10 minutes, until brown.

*Grains of Paradise is not widely available at retail outlets.  Among other sources, it can be also be purchased at: http://www.chefbelinda.com/Spices.html

The Blacker The Berry Food “Spice Expert” Chef Belinda Smith-Sullivan is a graduate of Johnson & Wales University, world traveler and creator of Chef Belinda’s Spices.  You can read more about Chef Belinda Smith-Sullivan here…

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